Tastings with winemaker Rodrigo
Redmont
November 24, 2017
I spent a lovely evening recently
at Renaissance KL Hotel’s Dynasty Chinese Restaurant. The cosy, intimate dinner
for about 30 people was hosted by Italian winemaker Rodrigo Redmont of
Talamonti.
His family-owned vineyards in Abruzzo, a two-hour drive east of Rome, produce not only wines but a limited edition olive oil; only 1,000 50cl-bottles are produced annually. After all, the Abruzzo region is famous for olive trees which, Rodrigo says, are protected in Italy and cannot be cut down at will.
His family-owned vineyards in Abruzzo, a two-hour drive east of Rome, produce not only wines but a limited edition olive oil; only 1,000 50cl-bottles are produced annually. After all, the Abruzzo region is famous for olive trees which, Rodrigo says, are protected in Italy and cannot be cut down at will.
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Winter Melon with lobster, crabmeat |
We watch a slide presentation on Talamonti
wines while nibbling on canapés and sipping Trebi Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC. This is an easy drinking white, made with
Trebbiano d’Abruzzo grapes. There is a hint of sweetness amidst the crisp
finish and a distinct aroma of apples and peaches.
The dinner proper starts with a
soup, Winter Melon stuffed with lobster, crabmeat with environmentally-correct faux
“shark’s fin” in thickened chicken essence broth. I can taste crustacean
sweetness in every spoonful, making this a delightful start to the meal.
With the soup, Rodrigo offers Trabocchetto
Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGP, made from the low-yield pecorino grapes. With hues
of pale straw, it bursts with
a bouquet of ripe pear, green apple and peach. A refreshing acidity and dry on
the palate.
Dynasty’s award-winning Chef
Kok Chee Kin then presents a triple entrée platter of Wok Seared Cumin-Rubbed
Lamb Rump, Honey-Baked Atlantic Cod Fillet and Chilled Mini Abalone.
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Wok Seared Cumin-Rubbed Lamb Rump, Honey-Baked Atlantic Cod Fillet and Chilled Mini Abalone |
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Ruby red Moda Montepulciano d'Abruzzo |
I work my way from the cod
and abalone to the lamb. The thick chunk of cod is sweet and juicy, baked with
timed perfection that speaks volumes of Kok’s culinary passion.
The chilled abalone serves
to freshen up the palate slightly, prepping it for the lamb. And what a
stunning serve of lamb it is. The hint of cumin plays well the balancing act
with the stronger flavour of the oh-so-tender meat, cut into bite-sized cubes.
With this, a pouring
of Moda Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC, a ruby-red wine
with violet undertones. I can taste ripe but lively red fruit, enveloped
in oak spices. Indeed, the notes of cherries, plums and fresh raspberry are
pretty persistent on the finish.
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Slow-seared wagyu beef (far top) and rack of lamb with stirfried portobello mushroom, spinach tofu and black pepper jus |
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Tre Saggi or Three Sages is a complex wine that's at its best after it's been decantered for a few hours. Right: The selection of five wines from Talamonti |
The red meat calls for Tre Saggi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC and
diners are offered Kudos Colline Pescaresi Rosso IGT as well. It is good to be
able to make an instant comparison between the two.
The name “Tre Saggi” translates as The Three Sages. This deep,
complex wine is a vivid red with purple undertones. At first sip, I am a bit
undecided. As it turns out, the taste quickly develops as I work my way through
the lamb. This is a wine that will be best decantered for a few hours to
release the aromas of red fruit, vanilla, chocolate, liquorice and cloves. A complex
and inviting nose to go with the fruity, elegant finish.
I far prefer this to the Kudos
Colline Pescaresi Rosso IGT though critics have scored this as one of the top 5
Colline Pescaresi IGT wines. Perhaps I am awed by its strong spirit that comes
from the blend of Merlot and Montepulciano.
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Raspberry Lychee Mousse wrapped in rose jelly and served with mango-coconut ice cream, stewed pear on chocolate soil and crisp almond biscuit |
Dessert is Raspberry Lychee Mousse wrapped in rose jelly and
served with mango-coconut ice cream, stewed pear on chocolate soil and crisp
almond biscuit.
WHERE
DYNASTY
RESTAURANT (no pork served)
Level 1, East Wing
Renaissance Kuala Lumpur Hotel
Cnr Jalan Sultan Ismail & Jalan Ampang, KL
Tel: 603-2716 9388
OPERATING
HOURS
Daily: Lunch
Noon-2.30pm; Dinner 6.30-10.30pm
Sunday/P.Hol:
Dim sum from 9.30am-2.30pm
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