Signature Kappo dining
November 28,
2018
Where do I
begin? Dinner was a sensuous, salubrious, satiating affair from my first sip of
matcha.
I nod in
quiet agreement when My Best Friend thinks aloud that we do live a blessed
life. Indeed, we are being showered with plates full of blessings this evening.
Even the late afternoon thunderstorm earlier had calmed down to a powdery mist
as we walked across the lobby of the Ritz-Carlton Residences to an understated
small recess in the wall outlined with a white border and a noren (half
curtain) marks the entrance to Takebayashi, the city’s first Kappo-style
restaurant.
 |
| Chef Tatsuo Takebayashi |
Inside, the
team, led by chef Tatsuo Takebayashi (picture), call out loudly in greeting. One side of
the small, cosy restaurant is taken up by the kitchen, with a bar-counter
running along its perimeter. A special feature of Kappo cuisine is that
customers are encouraged to occupy bar-counter seats so they can watch the
itame (chef) prepare each dish, and perhaps have animated conversations about
the food itself.
If preferred,
they can sit at small tables or in a private room with a view of the iconic
Twin Towers.
We are
offered green tea, an aromatic brew that soothes our throats and calms the
mind.
Then comes the first zensai (appetiser), a platter of 3 pieces of Cream
Cheese With Miso (RM30). Take-san tells us that the cheese has been marinated
with miso for three days and then lightly seared just before serving. I take a
bite and feel the cheese melt into creamy bliss, with an added salty edge from
the miso.
This is not an appetiser to rush through. Small bites help prolong
the moments of pleasure. On the side is a small red bayberry, sweet enough to
just cut through the creaminess of the cheese.
 |
| Cream Cheese With Miso |
I am just
thinking this is a dish that’s hard to beat when Cold Tomato Umami Jelly (RM45)
is offered. Doesn’t look like much – just a whole momotaro tomato sitting on a cushion
of chopped up jelly in hues of light tea. The tomato is skinned and cut into four
for easy handling. The sweet crunch of the tomato is tempered by the salty, umami
taste of the silky jelly, made with dashi and konbu. It’s glorious just allowing
the delicate flavours to wash over my palate.
 |
| Cold Tomato Umami Jelly |
This is followed by another cold dish, White Fish with XO Salsa (RM80). The fish served depends on seasonal catches and what is freshest. We have kinmedai or golden eyed snapper. The flesh is sliced into slivers and arranged like a fan with scoops of XO salsa (scallops, dried prawns, garlic) at one end and, on the other, sango radish sprouts and a bunch of grated daikon. Ponzu sauce is drizzled over the fish. It’s a good combination of flavours, with the salsa adding another level of taste and aroma to the fish.
 |
| White Fish With XO Salsa |
Takebayashi
may not serve traditional Japanese cuisine but the Japanese spirit shines in
every dish. For
instance, his Chawan Mushi (RM45) has a topping of Dried Scallop Sauce that’s
bursting with flavoursome sweetness. Steamed perfectly, the egg custard is
silky smooth, with chicken, prawn, ginkgo and to my surprise, a small cube of
yomogi mochi that gives an extra textural contrast to the dish.
 |
| Chawan Mushi with DriedScallop Sauce |
The Salmon
Tataki Salad (RM50) comes with a Takebayashi signature, jalapeno sauce. The
salmon, seasoned with salt pepper and charred on the outside, is allowed to
cool before it’s sliced and arranged artfully on a bed of salad greens, sliced
red turnip and a creamy jalapeno sauce.
 |
| Salmon Tataki Salad with jalapeno sauce |
If you’re get
the feeling you’ve tasted this somewhere, you may have, at Nobu. Not
surprising, since Take-san was previously at Nobu KL for three years before he
opened Takebayashi in September. This connection is his tribute to his years
spent in Nobu.
We are
equally enamoured of Popcorn Shrimp Spicy Mayo Sauce (RM45) and amazed that the
deepfried shrimp stayed crispy and hot even after the long photography session.
 |
| Popcorn Shrimp With Mayonnaise |
It’s not all
seafood. Takebayashi offers Grilled Wagyu Beef Tongue and Steak. Take-san
prepares us his favourite Grilled Spring Chicken from his Omakase menu, served
with a grilled chilli pepper, grilled white corn, cauliflower, brown sauce and
freshly grated wasabi.
 |
| Grilled Spring Chicken |
Apart from
beer and sake, Takebayashi stocks a range of wines, including its own brand
(RM250/bottle; RM45/glass) of Red Croatian and White Malvasia from Italy. Our
pick, the white Takebayashi Castello di Luzzano is a crisp, semi-dry wine that twirls a
sparkling tango with the fresh seafood. I love the tiny, light bubbles that
hints of prosecco and the long, aromatic floral finish.
We have
saved the sushi for last – just a piece of Toro (RM40) and Aji (RM10) each,
with an added bounty in the wasabi, grated a la minute at the table with a
sharkskin grater by Executive Chef Jhon Chan.
 |
| Executive Chef Jhon Chan grating wasabi on a sharkskin grater |
Our dessert
is a simple platter of juicy Japanese Nashi Pear and vanilla ice cream which
helps somewhat to calm our palates still tingling in excitement from the exquisite samplings at dinner.
 |
| Nashi Pear with Vanilla Ice Cream |
TAKEBAYASHI KAPPO RESTAURANT (No Pork Served)
Concourse
Area
The
Ritz-Carlton Residences
Jalan
Ampang, Kuala Lumpur
Telephone
+603-2181
3365
Opening
Hours
Monday-Friday:
Noon to 2.30pm; 6.30pm to 10.30pm
Saturday:
6.30pm to 11pm
Promotion
Takebayashi serves
a 7-course omakase menu (RM280) as well as a lunch set menu (from RM40) with
rice, chawan mushi, salad, oshinko (pickled radish) and miso soup.
